Rabat — As the holy month of Ramadan draws to a close, markets in Morocco’s capital fill with husbands searching for gifts. For many families, the final days before Eid al-Fitr bring a lesser-known but enduring custom known as the “right of salt” – a symbolic gesture of gratitude from men to the women who have spent weeks preparing the elaborate meals that mark the fasting month.
In the narrow lanes of Rabat’s historic medina, retired civil servant Hassan El Fezouati studies jewellery displays and embroidered garments, weighing what he might buy for his wife. Like many Moroccan men, he observes the tradition each year as a way of acknowledging the labour that goes into feeding a household during Ramadan.
“The right of salt is a recognition of the woman’s efforts during the month of Ramadan,” he says. “She carries the responsibility of preparing meals every day for iftar and suhoor. I try to keep this tradition alive and encourage our children to continue it in their own families.”
During Ramadan, observant Muslims fast from dawn until sunset, abstaining from food and drink throughout the day. At sunset families gather for iftar, the meal that breaks the fast, often followed by late-night prayers and social gatherings. Before dawn, another meal known as suhoor is eaten to prepare for the next day’s fast.
The daily rhythm means long hours in the kitchen, especially in Morocco where iftar is often a generous spread of soups, pastries and sweets prepared fresh each evening. Among the staples is Harira, a rich tomato-based soup with lentils, chickpeas and herbs that is considered an essential element of Ramadan evenings in many Moroccan households.
“For us, Ramadan means a lot of cooking,” says Batoul Ramzi, Hassan’s wife. “From the moment I wake up I am preparing dishes for the evening. It is rewarding but it can also be tiring, because the effort during Ramadan is much greater than the rest of the year.”
The “right of salt” – sometimes referred to in Arabic as haq al-milh – is believed to have developed across the Maghreb as a symbolic reward for women’s work during the fasting month. In some households it takes the form of money or gold jewellery presented on Eid morning, while in others it might be clothing, perfume or a small personal gift.
The meaning of the phrase itself has inspired several interpretations. One commonly cited explanation is that salt represents the care women take in seasoning dishes correctly even though they cannot taste the food during the daytime fast. The expression has therefore become shorthand for appreciation of patience and effort in the kitchen.
In Morocco, where family meals remain a central part of social life, Ramadan cooking often involves a wide variety of dishes served together at sunset. Alongside harira, tables may feature dates, chebakia sesame pastries coated in honey, boiled eggs, bread and savoury pastries filled with seafood or minced meat. Preparing such meals daily for an entire month requires significant planning and time.
Economics also shape how the tradition is observed. While some men purchase gold bracelets or rings, others choose more modest presents depending on their financial circumstances.
Hassan says that earlier in his career he often bought jewellery, but retirement has changed what he can afford. After browsing the markets of Rabat, he decides on a brightly coloured caftan – a traditional Moroccan robe – that his wife had once mentioned wanting.
As evening approaches, the couple gather with their family to break the fast. The table fills with dishes Batoul has prepared throughout the afternoon, and the familiar call to prayer signals the end of the day’s fasting.
After the meal Hassan presents his gift, prompting smiles and laughter around the table. Batoul tries on the caftan immediately, delighted with the surprise.
“For me the right of salt represents appreciation and joy,” she says. “It doesn’t have to be something expensive. Even a kind word is enough. What matters most is the gesture.”
Anthropologists note that customs like these reflect the way Ramadan blends spiritual devotion with family traditions across the Muslim world. While the religious obligations of fasting and prayer are shared globally, each society adds its own cultural practices to mark the season.
In Morocco, where hospitality and communal eating are deeply embedded in everyday life, the “right of salt” remains one of the quieter rituals of the month – a reminder, as Eid approaches, of the often unseen work that sustains family celebrations.
For many households, it is also a tradition passed between generations. Hassan says he hopes his children will continue it after they marry.
“It is a simple way to say thank you,” he says, watching the evening settle over Rabat’s old city. “And gratitude is something every family should remember.”
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